Ölgii Eagle Festival without a tour

Seeing one of the best sights in Mongolia on your own schedule

Before I booked a flight from Ulaanbaatar to Ölgii/Ulgii, I searched and searched for the write-up which I’m now giving to you: visiting the Golden Eagle Festival without any tour group.

There is a place for tour groups, and I envied a few travelers’ stories of spending weeks on the road, or camping with hunters. But for flexible schedules, lower prices, or a more grounded experience, you’ve decided to do things differently.
I’ll explain the options and costs in MNT and USD.

When is the official Golden Eagle Festival happening?

The first weekend of October. Saturday and Sunday.
The days have different events, so attend both and stay through the end.
If I did pick one day, I would pick Sunday.

Do I need a visa?

As of this writing, the US, Canada, Russia, Japan, and some other countries have visa-free travel to Mongolia. I arrived, filled out a form with my hotel’s address and phone number, told customs when I had my return flight, and walked out of the airport minutes later. You can see an unofficial map here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_policy_of_Mongolia

Booking the flight (or not?)

Your biggest cost is flying: first to Ulaanbaatar, then on to Ölgii / Ulgii.
Most booking sites don’t have Ölgii airport or flight schedules, but don’t be discouraged. You can search for flights UB <-> Ulgii on the official websites for AeroMongolia and Hunnu Air. I booked a ticket on AeroMongolia’s website in mid-August. Each direction cost 700,000 MNT = 262 USD (total: $524).

Wherever you live, flying to Ulaanbaatar is likely costly and includes a connection. I made a big itinerary sandwich with my flights: a night in Ölgii before and after the festival, and ~24 hours in Ulaanbaatar to sightsee and to avoid a delay unraveling my whole trip.

Other than flying:

• you can take a van/bus service which takes two days to go between Ölgii and Ulaanbaatar — this seemed like a good deal and an adventure on a low price, but depends on your timing
• there is a train connection from Russia to Ulaanbaatar

Booking the Airbnb (or not?)

Also in mid-August, I booked an Airbnb in Ölgii for 15 USD/night x 3 nights (total: $45). My host did not have a flush toilet, shower, or WiFi, but did an excellent job making meals, keeping the house warm and comfortable, assisting me in buying a SIM card, and recommending local art events.
I could see these comforts being an issue for other travelers. Look for deals at apartments close to the main square / museum / concert area.

Other than Airbnb:

• There are a limited number of hotels.
• I heard about people camping near the festival or ~one hour drive away, which involves pre-planning, tour groups, drivers, etc. On my trip the temperature went below -6C / 20F, and some previous years had snow, so as an amateur I would feel uncomfortable camping outdoors on my own.

Arranging a driver (or not?)

In mid-September, I asked my Airbnb host for advice for hiring a local driver. The driver didn’t speak English, but we worked together with my Airbnb host and a relative who did.
I didn’t ask for a price in advance. At the end of the trip, they asked for 80,000 to 100,000 MNT / day (30–38 USD) and the airport pickup/dropoff was free.
Also I was expected to pay to refuel the car and buy oil (100,000 MNT / 38 USD) and for the festival car entry ticket (5,000 MNT / 2 USD).
Total cost for driving was $100-116.

Could you hike from Ölgii to the festival? It’s about 6 miles / 10 km from the center of Ölgii, so I think yes. I didn’t see anyone doing this, but I didn’t see physical barriers to it either. If you rode horses with a local, or found a place to stay further east (in Buga) it might make more sense. I’d recommend high-visibility vests and below-freezing weather clothing, as it gets cold, and cars are going offroad here.

Festival Ticket

A ticket costs 80,000 MNT / 30 USD and covers both days at the festival, plus a concert on the first night.

Total cost (once in Mongolia)

715 USD + stay in Ulaanbaatar ($30–40/night), taxi at UB airport ($11/trip)
(compare to this four-day tour charging $1450, or $1800 if traveling alone).

Bring

Kazakh phrases (not Mongolian language)
Chair or stool for sitting during the festival
Water and snacks
Sunscreen, warm clothing, lighter sweater for warmer days
Toilet paper
Quality camera (not just your phone)
Tips for taking selfies with riders
Mobile phone with unlocked / replaceable SIM card (though coverage is almost zero at the festival site, and internet impossible)